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Notes on my first recreation wulsthaube
A couple years ago I recreated this Wulsthaube. Since then, I have had many requests for instructions on how I made it. So, here's my notes:
It all started with this black and white of Magdalena Neudorfer of 1527, because I love the blackwork! I didn’t want to have the wulst be as large or to use the thin see thru fabric, so there’s a few modifications.
I thoroughly like the way it came out, but FYI: although it is based on the above painting, which is primary source documentation, no extant pieces or period patterns were used for reference. It is simply my version.
To create the wulst, I took some cotton roll, purchased from the local fabric store and placed it on my head approximately where the wulst would sit. I cut it to just below my ears, wrapped it in linen and taped over the whole thing with masking tape. (Being as nobody would see it, ever :) ) I wrapped the masking tape tighter towards the ends to taper them a bit.
Once taped, I stitched a small piece of cotton string to each end, and tied them together to achieve the arch I desired once the piece was on my head.
Then I added a piece of linen to cover the back. This piece is flat at the bottom and arched at the top like a rainbow with both ends brought almost together. I placed a piece of interfacing directly in back (so my hair wouldn’t push it out as much) cut to the same rainbow shape. I have since taken the interfacing out because it is not needed. At this point, the base piece is finished (the wulst or pad) and ready to be placed on the head. I stitched a clear plastic comb to the center top (as you can see in the first photo) but have since found that this is also not needed. Once the top linen is tied around the wulst and knotted at the base of the neck, if it is snug enough, the hat will not move.
From here, I finished construction on a long necked wig form (a styrofoam head). I placed the wulst on the head and used long stick pins to hold in place.
I cut a large square piece of linen, using the selvage as the front (by the eyes). I took care to let the linen sweep nicely over the wulst.
Realizing that there needs to be approximately 2 extra inches on the front for the space that the embroidered band will suck up, I added a little extra. Sweeping the linen back over the wulst, I pinned it in pleats so it would look nice in back. Unfortunately I made this wulsthaube 3 years ago and there are no photos of the last couple steps.
(When it was new, it looked really nice in back. These photos are rushed for construction tutorial purposes only).
I made a small rectangular piece of linen (approx 3” x 1-1/2”) for the back piece that the pleats of the haube will be sewn into. Fitting the large piece of pleated linen into this small rectangular piece was interesting! I pinned the linen in place and, not worrying about the ends being perfect, I cut off the extra linen and stitched the underside.
Next I folded the rectangular piece to the front and hand stitched the top. When worn, the other two corners of the haube (the 2 opposing corners that are along the edge that sweeps above the eyes) are pulled back and tied under the small rectangle.
The embroidered band is a separate piece, so I can wash the head cloth linen without worrying about the black thread bleeding onto the white. As you can see, this piece is NOT simply a long rectangle.
It seems like that would be the way to do it, but I’ve realized that as you wrap it around your head, it makes sense to have the piece follow the contours of the gap between the wulst and your head, i.e. the gap is wider in the area of the top center and narrows as it sweeps back behind the ears.
This shape seems to do a good job of making everything behave on the head, giving the desired look.
At the back, I have a set of hook and eyes for closure.
I believe that about covers it! So, here’s the finished product: (Please forgive the yellowing at the front of the haube *shy grin* ).
It all started with this black and white of Magdalena Neudorfer of 1527, because I love the blackwork! I didn’t want to have the wulst be as large or to use the thin see thru fabric, so there’s a few modifications.
I thoroughly like the way it came out, but FYI: although it is based on the above painting, which is primary source documentation, no extant pieces or period patterns were used for reference. It is simply my version.
To create the wulst, I took some cotton roll, purchased from the local fabric store and placed it on my head approximately where the wulst would sit. I cut it to just below my ears, wrapped it in linen and taped over the whole thing with masking tape. (Being as nobody would see it, ever :) ) I wrapped the masking tape tighter towards the ends to taper them a bit.
Once taped, I stitched a small piece of cotton string to each end, and tied them together to achieve the arch I desired once the piece was on my head.
Then I added a piece of linen to cover the back. This piece is flat at the bottom and arched at the top like a rainbow with both ends brought almost together. I placed a piece of interfacing directly in back (so my hair wouldn’t push it out as much) cut to the same rainbow shape. I have since taken the interfacing out because it is not needed. At this point, the base piece is finished (the wulst or pad) and ready to be placed on the head. I stitched a clear plastic comb to the center top (as you can see in the first photo) but have since found that this is also not needed. Once the top linen is tied around the wulst and knotted at the base of the neck, if it is snug enough, the hat will not move.
From here, I finished construction on a long necked wig form (a styrofoam head). I placed the wulst on the head and used long stick pins to hold in place.
I cut a large square piece of linen, using the selvage as the front (by the eyes). I took care to let the linen sweep nicely over the wulst.
Realizing that there needs to be approximately 2 extra inches on the front for the space that the embroidered band will suck up, I added a little extra. Sweeping the linen back over the wulst, I pinned it in pleats so it would look nice in back. Unfortunately I made this wulsthaube 3 years ago and there are no photos of the last couple steps.
(When it was new, it looked really nice in back. These photos are rushed for construction tutorial purposes only). I made a small rectangular piece of linen (approx 3” x 1-1/2”) for the back piece that the pleats of the haube will be sewn into. Fitting the large piece of pleated linen into this small rectangular piece was interesting! I pinned the linen in place and, not worrying about the ends being perfect, I cut off the extra linen and stitched the underside.
Next I folded the rectangular piece to the front and hand stitched the top. When worn, the other two corners of the haube (the 2 opposing corners that are along the edge that sweeps above the eyes) are pulled back and tied under the small rectangle.
The embroidered band is a separate piece, so I can wash the head cloth linen without worrying about the black thread bleeding onto the white. As you can see, this piece is NOT simply a long rectangle.
It seems like that would be the way to do it, but I’ve realized that as you wrap it around your head, it makes sense to have the piece follow the contours of the gap between the wulst and your head, i.e. the gap is wider in the area of the top center and narrows as it sweeps back behind the ears.
This shape seems to do a good job of making everything behave on the head, giving the desired look.
At the back, I have a set of hook and eyes for closure.
I believe that about covers it! So, here’s the finished product: (Please forgive the yellowing at the front of the haube *shy grin* ).
